"And I wear my boots of Spanish leather, oh while I'm tightening my crown. I'll disappear in some flamenco, perhaps I'll reach the other side..."
Tuesday, July 5, 2011
A farewell of sorts
As my lovely friend Meg recommended to me, its time to give this blog an official rest, in order to preserve its purpose. When I stumble upon it in a few months or years time, I will have sufficiently processed that wonderful semester of my life that was Spain. Upon rediscovery, it will be even sweeter, I reckon. Until then, I've locked these memories into a time capsule. Adieu and 'ta luego.
Saturday, July 2, 2011
Final Thoughts
Well, we've (I've) reached the end. Tomorrow marks the return journey home and as I sit here in Madrid and make some final preparations, it seems all too strange to me that I am going to be leaving Europe and SPAIN in the morning. Honestly, now that I've reached the end, I am not sure if I am ready to go...sure there are a lot of things that I am CRAVING from the United States and I am excited to see all my family + friends, but I have definitely reached a level of comfort here that I am not sure I am willing to give up just yet.
~~~
As I finish this blog post, I am currently sitting in my beloved bed in Raleigh, listening to Sharon Van Etten and James Blake, attempting to wrap my head around one of the most profound, fast-paced and best 5 and 1/2 months of my life. I began my return with a dinner at Angus Barn, followed by a much needed haircut, lunch at Whole Foods with Meg Philbrook, a visit to Alexander to get t-shirts and see camp and a trip to Target...a pretty solid welcome home itinerary in my book. Then came Elmo's Diner and a trip to Carrboro house. It is entirely wonderful and strange to be at home, back in the United States. In some ways, it almost feels like the last 5 months didn't actually happen, like maybe I never left at all. The routine of home returned pretty immediately and I'm surprised by this. But then of course there are the homecomings, the favorite foods and the billions of questions. I'm trying to work on not overwhelming everyone (and myself) with stories--it's hard to not get carried away, but honestly its even harder to process it all. I've got a semester of memories, challenges, moments and everything else in between. And I've got a sweet summer to figure it all out hopefully, before its time to return to Chapel Hill. It's good to be home in so many ways, but in many other it feels like I've got some adjusting to do. Here goes a little bit of re-assimilation. Spain I already miss you, but I know I ended this chapter with an ellipsis and not a period. I'm coming back, I promise.
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
Just touched down in LONDONTOWN.
As a final chapter of my Euro-semester, I got to spend 3 days in London visiting some friends I haven't seen in a while. The company was great and the city was FANTASTIC. I really loved the vibe and the culture and could see myself spending some significant time in the city. I drank my fair share of cider, indulged in fish and chips and saw the famous Abbey Road. I saw Warhol, Pollock and Monet at the Tate Modern, walked alongside the Thames and rode double decker buses (on the opposite side of the road, of course). I also loved seeing sites like Trafalgar Square, Big Ben and Westminster, a West End show and the wonderful hippie charm of Camden; London, I know I'll be back to explore. Here are a few pics from my adventure.
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
The Bucket List.
I've decided now that I am LESS THAN 2 MONTHS AWAY from the end of my semester, that it is time to make a bucket list of things (mostly in Spain) I would like to accomplish/see/do before my European adventure ends, as well as document the amazing things I already have done! It is also a catch-all for the adventures I've had in between my blog posts. I'll try to keep up with the list and hopefully come June 30, all or at least many of the items will have been completed! Here goes...
(The items listed in bold represent those already accomplished)
- See a bull fight in Sevilla
To the absolute disgust of my roommate from last semester (...), I did indeed attend a "corrida de toros" or bull fight here in Sevilla. It was quite the experience I must say. 6 slain bulls later and it was accomplished--although a little intense, the matador's dance with the bull is simply mesmerizing. If it makes me a "bad person," so be it, but the tradition of bull fighting in Spain has always intrigued me and to have finally witnessed it first hand was an incredible experience.
- Be published
During my stint at The Olive Press, I was able to write 12ish briefs that were included in the latest issue of The Olive Press AND one of my stories got my byline! Although it was a very short article, it is quite awesome to see myself published abroad!
- Attend a futbol game
I never got around to writing a post about it, but I indeed did watch the Sevilla vs. Malaga game here in February. Decked out in my Sevilla scarf, it was a very interesting, and a very Spanish experience to say the least! The crowd chanting in loud Spanish, dramatic plays/injuries, and a very unified ambiance. Now I see why it is indeed the Spanish way of life!
-Botellón on the river/Calle Betis
A SUCCESS! As part of the last Sevilla hooray, a group of us bought our liters of Cruzcampo and headed down to the water's edge on Sevilla's ever-lively Calle Betis! For two hours, we reminisced, talked about everything under the sun, argued during an impromptu game of Who Am I? and enjoyed the last big night out for many of the group. It was something I wanted to do my entire semester and I loved having that be a big part of my send off!
-Attend La Feria de Abril
Pretty much, La Feria is a combination of the State Fair, an exclusive frat party, a horse parade, flamenco and hoards of drinking. Therefore, it is nearly impossible for me to describe. It is a week-long 24 hour party that happens to be about 1.5 blocks from my house. The women are decked out in gorgeous flowing flamenco dresses and the men are looking ever so suave in coats and ties. Also, many of the tents are private, so you are lucky if you have Spanish friends who can slip you an invite--I'll admit I've lucked out a few times and entered into these sacred Feria establishments.
-Watch a quality flamenco show
Although I've been to La Carboneria, the free flamenco show that everyone who is anyone goes to in Sevilla, I wanted to find something a little less commericalized. I had planned on going to a cheap tablao, but in my current economic situation, I can't manage that. However, the other night I went to a FANTASTIC and FREE show at T de Triana, a bar on Betis. I watched a set and a half and was literally fixated on the show--the mournful wailing of the singer, the signature guitar playing and the passionate dancing were all incredible. It was a great way to end my time in Sevilla--perhaps next time I can work out a tablao, but for now, this was pretty awesome too!
-Visit another continent
...and that's exactly what I did when I ventured to Morocco! I now can knock my continent count up to 3--North America, Europe, and Africa! Having the opportunity to visit Morocco gave a really interesting perspective into a culture that is even more different than my own, but I throughly enjoyed the opportunity to further expand my awareness.
-Visit Abbey Road
And check that one off the list! I did indeed make it to Abbey Road during my short stint in London and I loved being able to set foot on a pretty iconic place. Some of my favorite Beatles' songs are off of this album and I love the idea that they simply shot the cover outside of the studios. Also, I got myself on camera and on the internet (that sounds terribly bad, actually)--there's a live camera at the crosswalk that watches everyone cross the street. You can view it right here! http://www.abbeyroad.com/visit/
-Swim in the Mediterranean
So far, I've only touched the freezing waters of this sea when I went to Barcelona, however I'll go ahead and count it. BUT the real experience was in Mallorca! I spent 4 days with 9 other friends soaking up the sun on the Balearic Island of Mallorca--and naturally spent a good portion of the time on the beach and swimming around in the Mediterranean. With its gorgeous color and relatively warm temperatures, it was quite an enjoyable experience--and one I can now add to my repertoire.
in Barcelona
-Travel to eastern Europe!
I made it! To Prague and Berlin, and let me say, one of the best trips so far! After hearing enormous amounts of raving about Prague from the internet and Cameron Nelson, I finally had my own chance to visit it and I definitely fell in love with the city and all it has to offer. The castle, the strange language, the koruna instead of the euro, the kielbasa, the gorgeous architecture--it all was incredible and I definitely want to return. Berlin was also another city that I want to make it back to--my day long adventure was not enough to the counter culture of this incredibly hip city enough, however I was riveted by the history the city has. And seeing the Berlin Wall in person was quite profound, I'll admit. Eastern Europe has a certain draw to it and honestly I might prefer it to the west (shhh....). I'll be back someday I'm most sure.
-Couchsurf
Couchsurfing has by far been one of the best little perks about traveling in Europe. From my Paris blog post, you probably remember my absolutely FANTASTIC experience with Caro and Vince. Although I only had the opportunity to do it once, it literally has increased the value of my semester tenfold, and let me meet incredible individuals! I can't wait to do it more in the future!
-Paddle boat in the Guadalquivir
We finally did it! Four of us split the cost of a paddle boat and took it out for a run for an hour on my last full day in Sevilla. It offered a really neat perspective of the river and we enjoyed the time to relax (at least those who weren't paddling could) and talk as the semester finished up. It was something I really wanted to do so I am so glad I finally got to!
-Eat fish and chips
Although I had to turn down an opportunity for a Sunday roast, I had some pretty boss fish and chips. And minted mushy peas! While on a free walking tour of London, I met a fellow American who was as gung ho about eating this dish as I was and we made our way to nice little pub for some classic breaded haddock with tartare, mushy peas and chips. As well as a refreshing pear cider to top it all off. I'm going to say I was a huge fan of this.
Monday, June 20, 2011
10. ten. dix. diez. (but in the other direction)
In terms of days, how are there only ten of them left?
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
5 month mark.
Today marks the officially end of the UNC in Sevilla study abroad program, however I'm sticking around for 15 more days, finishing up a stint at the English-speaking newspaper, The Olive Press (with which I did work for back in April), then a transfer to Madrid, a few days in Londontown, followed by a final few days in Madrid before take-off back to the US of A. Although I'm reveling in the opportunity for a few more weeks of travel, I can't help but be very jealous of all those whose are making there way home now. It's hard to keep super positive about staying when a lot of my news feed is filled with homecoming statuses and excitement to return. But I'm reminding myself that my time left is valuable, even if I'm secretly counting down the days until I can see my beloved hot, summery NC. In other news, living in Ronda working for the paper gives me the opportunity to finally COOK FOR MYSELF, something I have missed dearly (especially considering what I was being served). From fried rice to Italian pasta to huevos rancheros to raclette, I've tried to mix the menu up and keep things funky, after all its all up to me! I leave by train to Madrid on June 24th, but between now and then a huge task is figuring out how to minimize the EXCESSIVE weight in my suitcase...ugghhh. That and trying to stay occupied during the rather dry hours I spend in The Olive Press office...I'm pretty sure updating the blog might become a very handy procrastination technique. But as I finish up here, I hope to remain enthralled with Europe and not give in too soon to the temptation of my home.
Sunday, May 29, 2011
City Break: Lishhhboa (Lisbon)
Like it usually goes, this blog post is only about 2.5 weeks late. I spent the weekend of May 20-22 in LOVELY Lisbon in Portugal, an adventure I undertook alone. It ended up being one of my favorite adventures thus far.
To start things off, I took the overnight bus from Sevilla to Lisbon, placing me in the Portuguese city around 7:30 am. Between bumbling over my lack of Portuguese knowledge, chasing down the tram and overall looking very lost, I final found my hostel--Johnnie's Place in the heart of the neighborhood of Graça. Despite running on 4.5 hours of sleep (maybe you aren't aware of how uncomfortable buses really are), I hit the ground running. I spent some time in the Praça do Comércio before heading over to Belem, the western most neighborhood in Lisbon. I climbed the Tower of Belem, peaked into the monastery and finally indulged in some FANTASTIC pastries, pasteles de nata, from the renowned Pasterleria de Belem. That afternoon, I headed back towards my side of town and visted the Castelo de Sao Jorge, a giant wonder that gives you the most magnificent view of Lisbon. After running around the city by day, I was not only pretty tired but also a little sunburned. I headed back to the hostel for a treat of a night--a home-cooked Peruvian meal and a night of Peruvian storytelling, hosted by Pedro (the owner of the hostel).
pasteles de nata
The neat thing about Johnnie's Place is that the owner loves to organize hostel-wide events to complement the experience. My Friday night was consumed with stuffed bell peppers, black beans and Quechua legends, told by a my nice friend Wayqui. I met Wayqui in the lobby of the hostel and we hit it off right away--over the next two nights, we talked about everything under the sun, from Spain to favorite music, to religion and the US politics. It gave me a fantastic opportunity to practice my Spanish (ironic, since I was in Portugal, and they really don't speak Spanish (despite popular belief)). The opportunity to meet him was incredible, what a unique soul. And now if I ever find myself in Lima, I know exactly who to call.
The next day I woke up early to go to La Feira de Ladra, the weekly flea market that is very famous. As I wandered around the rows of stalls with a few Polish girls from the hostel, we made some great finds (and some less than great ones too). For lunch we stopped for a gazpacho break in the Praça do Comércio followed by a FREE wine tasting, where I sampled wines from 3 different regions in Portugal. The rest of the afternoon/evening was spent watching a few hours of fantastic, authentic and local fado, the traditional music of Lisbon. It is singing-oriented and accompanied by guitar and other instruments--usually the songs are woeful, sung by women lamenting over the loss of their men at sea. The fado was truly an incredible experience and we had a great time interacting with the locals.
To round out my Lisboa trip, I followed the girls to a MARVELOUS gelato shop in Barrio Alto--seriously the most legit gelato this side of Rome. As it that wasn't enough of a sweet fix, we headed back to get some MORE pasteles de nata. Definite sweet overload/sugar rush. That night, as a final hoorah, a few of us went out the mesmerizing Barrio Alto, and grid of insane nightlife filled streets and walks of life. It truly was the perfect end to the adventure.
I think with my Lisbon trip, I thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to meet some many awesome individuales in my hostel--and from all over the world (Peru, Poland, Ireland, the US, just to name a few). It was definitely one of my most memorable trips mostly because of the wonderful interactions I had--the type of interactions that remind just how wonderful traveling really is.
Praça do Comércio
Saturday, May 28, 2011
"To me America is both magical and scary"
31. Days that is. And I'm pretty much there.
Where you might ask? Well, I'm finally admitting that I'm stuck at that spot, teetering over the prospect of almost going home and then traveling/working/staying for another month. As much as Europe has been a life-changing experience, I'm itching ever so slightly (and now maybe a little more) to return to the place I know the best. So, will my homecoming be perfect? Hardly so. In that sense, I'm going to take some time to reflect on why America, the land of the free and home of the brave, is "both magical and scary."
For starters, the quote. I found it while tumbling on my Tumblr blog (because that's what you do on this type of blog) from suhhweetenedtea and it really struck me as fitting. Not only because I'm becoming awfully reflective as my semester winds down and my perspective has changed, but because it is just plain true. And it is the type of phrase that allows for individual interpretation, which in my opinion is the best kind. Here's mine.
America, in a magical sense. A perspective based on a semester abroad in Europe.
After being away from the everyday things I take for granted in the States, especially at my liberal university and college town I call one of my homes, many things in America are quite magical. Dryers, mounted shower heads, A/C, free bus system, US dollars, fresh vegetables and red meat are some of the things I long for daily here. America is magical to me in the sense that I have the opportunity to live in a diverse community, full of many ethnicities and lots of culture (which ultimately provides a delicious array of food I am lacking here--not to be shallow or anything) that is accepted. America is magical because I get to go to a fantastic university and receive a fantastic education that tries to promise that although jobs are tight, there will at least something to do postgrad. America is magical because iced caramel lattes cost less than $4 and I can find PERCOLATED coffee just about anywhere. America is magical because I get to spend afternoons at friends' houses, doing just about whatever. America is magical because of our freedoms. America is magical because of the tradition, but mostly the tradition of creating new traditions.
But it is true that America is scary. America is scary because of the rising rate of obesity and unhealthful eating. America is scary to me because of the country's inability to not meddle in world conflict (especially when our involvement boils down to solely personal gain). America is scary in how it addresses topics like gay marriage and abortion, fueled by hatred and the perverse ultraconservative religion that some believe should dictate all of our social policy. America is scary because of our own struggles with poverty and homelessness; its not just an exterior problem. America is scary because of rising gas prices and the lack of public transportation. America is scary because of its pop culture, and how it has come to influence many other countries around the world. America is scary because we constantly put ourselves at risk. America is scary because it is entirely unpredictable.
Those are just some of the stream of consciousness objects/ideas that I've decided to pour into this post. I think it has been completely helpful to step back and finally see both sides of the gun, with America being the gun in this situation. I can't lie that I've have been quick to judge several of the cultural/political/whatever practices here in Spain (and often ended up comparing them to the US, feeling a slight since of superiority), but sometimes it is hard to accept the differences. With the difficulties I've been having in my home stay as of late, sometimes my frustration with Spain overflows, despite the fact that my frustration is only with one aspect of Spain. But I'm using this post to remind me that not all that glitters is gold in the States too, and although I'm eager to get back in some ways, my time here in Europe, including the less thrilling parts, will be irreplaceable and a lifetime experience. So until these 31 days run out, I'm going to keep on adventuring as much as I can. Because in the scheme of things, my beloved home can wait a little longer.
Thursday, May 12, 2011
We took the U-Bahn to the East Side Gallery; Guten tag, Berlin
BERLIN, a side trip amidst a week in Prague.
Although our time in Berlin was very short, less than a day and half, I really enjoyed the opportunity to explore this vibrant center of culture and all things artistic, a modern city with quite the past, a place where the east and west may be united but still remain distinct. I can be a bit of a history junky, therefore having the opportunity to visit one of the prime spots of action during much of the 20th century. Here's a little recap of my short but important experience.
First things first, Berlin was quite COLD. Seriously, I'm pretty sure it dropped to freezing the first night--a stark difference from my sunny and hot Sevilla. We had a few layers, but it really wasn't doing the trick, especially with the blowing wind. After our 5 hour train ride from Prague, we were all a little tired, so we spent the first night doing a minimal amount of exploring and grabbing dinner--preparing ourselves for the next day of exploration. Much like Prague, we did a free walking tour in Berlin as well, hitting up all of the main spots like Brandenburg Gate, Hotel Adlon aka the hotel MJ dangled his baby out of, the Holocaust Memorial, Checkpoint Charlie, the Berlin Wall, and much more. I also secured my first German bratwurst during our tour break...it was truly fantastic (and this is coming from someone who refuses to eat hot dogs. REFUSES.) Our Aussie tour guide was fantastic and really passionate about the heritage of the city and the current vibrance Berlin exudes, despite not being a native. Although a lot of the tour focused on several of the negative aspects of Berlin/Germany's history--WWII, Hitler, Communism, the East/West divide, it was really important to me to have the experience of seeing the history first hand, kind of putting it in its place. At one point, we stood where Hitler's bunker formerly resided and it was incredibly eerie. The place is now a parking lot for some apartment buildings--apparently not even many Berliners of the current generation know that this was the spot where they found him dead. It proved to be some of the greatest evidence of the movement to destroy the terrible past and definitely was a very poignant part of the tour for me.
After our tour ended, the girls and I continued our walk through the east side and made our way to the East Side Gallery, a mural project displayed on a remaining 1.3 km stretch of the Berlin Wall. 100 or more artists created works that display sentiments of hope, freedom and peace, among things. This was probably my favorite part of Berlin, mostly because I am always fueled by others' creative pursuits. It's a truly unique way to memorialize the events that separated the city, but in a more positive and creative way. Walking along the stretch and reading/looking at the artists' words and pictures was truly captivating--if I had to pick a favorite, it would have been impossible. After our journey along the gallery, we grabbed some coffee and decided to take the Bahn, Berlin's metro system, back to our hostel (considering we were dead on our feet). Luckily the first train was above ground and let us look out at more of Berlin--although it was really neat to see more of the "hip" neighborhoods of the city, it made me wish I could have stayed longer. That night, we kept things generally quite again, considering we had to be up at 5 am for our train back to Prague. We grabbed some Doner Kebab with a fellow bunkmate from Cologne and finished up the night with a sampling of delicious cakes from a nearby cafe. I really enjoyed getting to know Sebastian and talk him about everything, including a lot of things about Germany I would otherwise have no idea about. Although our time in Berlin passed all too quickly, I am very glad that I had a chance to explore a taste of this intriguing city--next time, I want to make sure I milk the city's underground/artistic culture for all it is worth!
East Side Gallery
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Praha | Prague | Praga | Prag
Praha, Česká Republika: 29 april-may 2; may 4-5
Since my arrival to Europe for the semester, I've been pretty smitten with the idea of traveling to eastern Europe and namely Prague, thanks to the enthusiastic raving of a certain Cameron Nelson and several online recommendations. Prague has always had this fairytale land appeal and I knew from the beginning that it was a pretty high priority on my Eurotrip bucket list. Well go ahead and scratch it of, because during my second spring break of the semester, I made the journey east!
Along with a handful of friends, we began our journey early in Sevilla, followed by a layover in Barca, and finally arrival to Prague! After finagling with the tram system and figuring out pieces of the mysterious Czech language, we managed to make it to our hostel (which was the BEST HOSTEL EVER--Art Hole Hostel, if you are in Prague stay there!) Friday was mostly recovery but we managed to cook up a delicious meal of roasted vegetables and pasta with garlic bread--seriously it was incredible (mostly because, if you haven't heard, my food situation here in Spain is continuing to plummet--it's pretty bad...). Then it was straight to bed (considering I happened to develop a pesky little cold, just my luck) followed by an early Saturday morning start to the Prague exploration.
We began our time in the city the completely sensible way...a free 3.5 hour walking tour! Also, fortunately for us, Prague still had all of the Easter Markets open--fantastic klobasa, desserts and more--and went spent time there before our tour started. Our Czech tour guide Filip (notice the F, no the Ph...he very importantly pointed this out to us), showed us all the main landmarks and attractions in Prague and included a great little history lesson to boot. We walked through Old Town and Wenceslas Squares, meandered around the Jewish Quarter, passed by the residences of Franz Kafka and even stopped for a break at BOHEMIA BAGEL. Honestly, the trip to the bagel shop was one of the highlights only because a) I'm addicted to bagels, b) I'm completely deprived of said bagels in Spain, c) I'm an addict. Anyways my hummus bagel (though not quite the same as Alpine's beloved Hummus is Among Us) hit the spot and we finished up the tour with a visit to a church that contains a human arm and a swing by the Charles Bridge area and the gorgeous river.
I've always had a fascination with street art/graffiti and of course I'm in love with The Beatles, so the trip to this famous wall was a must. After a few misdirections, we finally found it and we each took our turn at signing the wall, and taking some rather cliche pictures (who cares). It reminded me a lot of the time I have spent tagging NC State's Free Expression Tunnel and was definitely a plus to the Prague trip. The Love Locks, though nothing extremely revolutionary, make for a really cute story and some unique photos, and were conveniently located right beside the wall! After the wall, we ventured up the Prague Castle, the obvious tour attraction of the city. Although the outside is very impressive, we weren't incredibly thrilled by the insides of the various exhibits, which consisted of a lot of empty rooms where you couldn't take pictures. It also might have just been that we were tired and it was raining. Regardless, I can add "visit to the Prague Castle" to my list!
...As well as a "visit to a bone church," check!
With the exception of a mini trip to Berlin in the middle of our week (another blog post, don't you worry), we spent the majority of the rest of our time in Prague exploring the Jewish Quarter, including the Pinkhas Synagogue and the Old Jewish Cemetery, Petrin Hill and the roads along side the river and throwing back lots of Pilsner (I also managed to try a Raspberry beer one night a bar--GOOD life choice). We gorged ourselves on a total of 7 desserts in honor of Rebecca's 21st and I managed to consume TWO DELICIOUS sausages from street vendors. Complety worth the 50 koruny each time! On our last night, we made friends with a couple of cool German guys, an aspiring professor and a pilot in training, and spent dinner and drinks with them, talking and laughing a whole lot. In general, we also lucked out with the weather as well--it might have been a little chilly compared to the 85° temperatures we consistently have in Spain right now, but it only made the time spent in the city more magical. Because that is exactly how I see Prague--a lovely Eastern European haven straight from a fairy tale. Maybe its the castle or the red roofed buildings, the tradition or even the tumultuous past that draws me to it's "magical" feel, but I know for sure that I will be returning to the city. And hopefully sooner than later. Prague love! Below I've posted a few more shots from my lovely days in the city.
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