After my week in the woods, I spent a few hours exploring Santiago de Compostela, the historic end of el Camino de Santiago, or the Way of St. James, and a city that draws thousands of pilgrims every year, who have followed el Camino from all over Europe. It's the city full of historic character, unique gastronomy and the greenest hills in all of Spain; one of my favorite adventures thus far.
"And I wear my boots of Spanish leather, oh while I'm tightening my crown. I'll disappear in some flamenco, perhaps I'll reach the other side..."
Saturday, April 23, 2011
Friday, April 22, 2011
Bridge to Terabithia, Birthday Parties, Barney's Adventures; a week in the woods of Galicia, Spain
If I know only one thing, it's that everything that I see
Of the world outside is so inconceivable often I barely can speak
Yeah I'm tongue-tied and dizzy and I can't keep it to myself
What good is it to sing helplessness blues, why should I wait for anyone else?
And I know, I know you will keep me on the shelf
I'll come back to you someday, soon, myself
While the majority of my program spent Easter week, our first spring break, roaming the streets of London, Paris or Italy, I spent mine in the woods of northern Spain, cut off from technology and the bustle of life. I'll go ahead and say that it was probably one of the greatest weeks of my semester and the rejuvenation that I needed to push through the rest of the semester. Here's my recount of that wonderful week, full of nature exploring, new experiences, hard work and lots of reflection. I'll attempt to sum it all up, but I think that some of it was too wonderful to truly express.
As background, I registered with a website called Workaway, a website where hosts seek volunteers to help with a variety of work including organic farming, child care, house refurbishment and much more (big THANKS to Lisa Waller for the tip!) It is similar to WWOOFing, which is an organization of organic farms--in fact the project I did is listed on WWOOF as well, for those of you who may be avid wwoofers. The eco reserve I found is based around organic farming, although it is at a self-sustainable level rather than commerical. For just 18 euro, I've got a 2 year membership to find places to volunteer--and receive free food + accomodations in return! It is a pretty awesome deal I must say.
But let's begin my journey. Thursday, 10 pm, arrival in Santiago de Compostela, Galicia: I arrived at the airport in Galicia fairly late, but to my advantage, Barney, one of the people I spent the week with, had arranged to come pick me up in the car! We spent the 1.5 hour journey back to the village talking about lots of things, the history of the eco-project, my studies and my experiences in Spain so far, and the natural beauty of Galicia. Upon arrival to Valderrodas, it was straight to bed for me (but only after meeting wonderful Emma of course!), in my cozy and rustic room lit only by candlelight.
The reserve is in Verducido, a little village about 30 minutes from Pontevedra, the nearest city. It is an eco-community nestled in the Galician mountains, where the members raise their own livestock and grow their own produce, sharing it with the neighbors. Emma and Barney definitely embody the idea of living off the land, and it was such a welcoming and refreshing change of perspective. Everything about Valderrodas, the reserve, is organic and sustainable--from the natural spring irrigation system, the solar power electricity, the compost toilet :), the plant based fertilizer and the completely natural building materials and wood burning stoves. Currently, they are working on several projects including refurbishing many of the finca ruins (stone houses) for living, removing the invasive eucalyptus from the forest (to restore its natural tendencies), planting lots of vegetables, fruits and herbs for consumption and working on plans to make it an educational nature reserve for children. Currently they have space for about 15 volunteers, but I was the only one their during the week, which was just fine! It is clear that the ambition at Valderrodas is bounding, and I was quite fortunate to be a part of this, starting from day 1.
My enchantment with the eco-project and Galicia in general began that next day with breakfast and the following days' food--breakfast comprised of a delicious DIY museli and toast with peanut butter. Barney and Emma are vegans and the food is completely organic--and TO DIE FOR! From homemade guacamole and hummus, fresh salads with self-grown vegetables to jars upon jars of olives and gerkin pickles, I was eating like a queen for the week (no fried food!). We even had a dessert every day--lemon-coconut cake, rice pudding and ginger cakes topped it all off. I think that vegans sometimes get a rap for not having any "normal" food, and that's entirely false--spaghetti, fried rice and pasta salad are all pretty normal in my book. And with it all being organic, I felt the best I've felt all semester. But the food was just one part that made Galicia so wonderful.
Generally speaking, I often enjoy the chance to have a hand at some good old manual labor. And that is exactly what I did up in lovely little Verducido. A few days consisted of preparing several irrigation beds for planting tomatoes, squash, lettuce and much more. A few more were dedicated to ring barking or taking an axe to the invasive eucalyptus that still cover a good portion of the land (yes, I hacked away at a tree. and cut one down. champ!). We planted and composted, cleaned up a few of the fincas and got down and dirty--I think I was still covered in dirt about a week after I left. And although every morning I would wake counting how many more muscles I could not move easily, the hard work was incredibly refreshing, especially when I began to see the progress. There was always something to and that made working that much more enjoyable.
But it would be silly to do all work and have no time to play. My afternoons at first consisting of exploring the forests, which look like those from the children's novel Bridge to Terebithia, covered in ancient ruins and lush vegetation (that looks an awful lot like my lovely NC). I climbed to the tops of hills and stare out at the wonderful natural beauty, went swimming in a rather chilly, but beautiful river, hiked along the ancient stone path and explored the moss-covered finca ruins and even had the chance to attend a birthday party for a cute as can be one-year-old (where I ate delicious cakes and played with some of the best kids, making a perfect afternoon). I watched a fantastic documentary about a community garden in the heart of LA, met all of the locals and connected with Emma and Barney's friends, I talked about the state of my own countries politics, sustainable food and my passion with the growing Latino culture in NC with Pili and Isa (The Chicas) at the local bar and learned Egyptian belly dance moves from Laura. From sharing my passions and adventures with everyone I met to trying countless new things, I felt right at home in this rich community and was quite amazed by its liveliness. I watched some beautiful sunsets over the hills and will never get over the endless mountains teeming with vegetation. I journaled everyday and enjoyed the time to reflect, something I had not had much a chance to do so far this semester. Overall and most of all I lived life simply and fully, just the way it should be done.
Abdul, such an awesome kid
I could probably go on and on about my week, but honestly it has been hard to truly explain it to people--the impact was that immense. In a lot of ways, it draws a lot of parallels to my incredible experiences at Blue Ridge and I would be lying if I said I didn't think of the Mountain often during the week. Physically speaking, it looks so much like the mountains of North Carolina, but also the genuine people I spent time with made it feel like I was at my mountain home. I've got about 15 pages of journaling (in Spanish mind you!) to remind me of the week, a few hundred photos, but mostly rich memories of some the most inspiring conversations to date. Considering that I've got quite the gift of gab, I think that that week's discussions will be treasured for some time to come.
the magical forest...
sunsets are always the best
Thursday, April 14, 2011
What is the difference between exploring and being lost?
I'm off to Galicia, Spain, a beautiful province in the north for 7 days to work on a forest restoration project. I'm going solo again and I am so excited and just a tad bit anxious, but I finally can't wait to have this experience. Full recap when I come back for sure! Until then, I leave you with this, a quote I hope might accurately describe my adventure when I return...
I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived.
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
The closest thing to French toast
In Sevilla during Lent and Semana Santa, a special pastry called a torrija makes a quick appearance and it is imperative that you grab one before they go away until the next year! Basically, torrijas come in all shapes and sizes and are made with a variety of ingredients, however it always resembles a delicious piece of French toast! Today, in honor of skipping class, I decided to try one (again) at La Campana, a famous pastry shop in the center of the city. And it was wonderful. Today's was a torrija de vino, so the sweet and sticky syrup it was doused with hinted of alcohol. Torrijas de leche, the other popular type are also quite delicious, they resemble a flan + French toast combo and I tried one of those when I was in Madrid! It really is quite incredible, much so that I pretty much inhaled it this morning. And since they are only offered during the 40 days of Lent, I'm even more convinced that spring is clearly the best time to study abroad. Let your eyes feast on this one.
Monday, April 11, 2011
A real life MTV Spring Break, check.
This past weekend can't exactly be explained, for numerous reasons. Between the 400 American college students on the beautiful beaches of Lagos, the lazy town life, the numerous runs to the market and a ridiculous tale of events, I feel as if I've had my turn at the iconic college spring break. But really all I can definitively say is that LAGOS, PORTUGAL is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. And I think that quitting my life to take up a long-term residence there, maybe run a B & B on the side, it would be a preferred life. Seriously, just look at these photos...
My time in Europe has truly been incredible.
Thursday, April 7, 2011
Faith has been restored.
After failing to find any soda but Coke and Fanta in Spain after 2 months, I'd given up on being able to taste the sweet deliciousness that is Dr. Pepper until my return stateside. However, a trip to a magical bakery/American food store in Madrid changed everything...
Christina chugged her's immediately. Mine however, is sitting underneath my bed, where it awaits a rainy day/absolutely miserable day to be consumed.
My quality of life has infinitely improved.
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
O Valencia!
I decided to a little more solo traveling and spent Saturday and Sunday in Valencia, Spain! Although it is the third largest city in Spain (and Sevilla ranks number 4), there wasn't a terrible amount to do, so my time there was just the right amount! Also, I found out that in Valencia, there is a dialect of Catalan (called Valencian) that can be found throughout the city; after a few hours of seeing a slightly familiar language, I finally remembered that it resembled that Catalan that covered the street signs and metro stops in Barcelona. Although I did not get the chance to go to L'Oceanographic (I ran out of time to make it to the aquarium, and I wasn't especially keen on the 20 euro admission charge), the world-renowned aquarium that is part of the City of Arts and Sciences, which is an avant-garde science park designed by architect Santiago Calatrava (really neat arcitecture) , I did go to the Museo de Ciencias Principe Felipe (which was kind of like Durham's Life and Science Museum in some ways, which is HANDS DOWN THE BEST MUSEUM EVER). I also got to go to the beach, even if it was pretty cloudy, and catch some rays, wander around the city, witness a PILLOW FIGHT and a random Vespa motorcade, as well as see Degas' ballerina sculptures at the modern art museum. I quite enjoyed the time alone and met some nice fellow travelers at my hostel, like Leonardo from Portugal who is on a 2-month long bike journey that started in Barcelona and will take him back to his home in Portugal. I also watched my first bit of AMERICAN television, considering the hostel was tuned into Discovery Channel--American Chopper, MythBusters, the like--what a treat! So even though the weekend wasn't too incredible eventful in itself and Valencia isn't as exciting as some of the other locales I've visited (or plan to visit), it was a much enjoyed break (and an opportunity to do some of my own, basic, yet delicious meal preparation...no FRIED FOODS for once). So there you have it, O, Valencia! I've included just a few photos below, mostly to show you the spontaneity that was the pillow fight...
Pillow Fight!
Degas' Ballerinas
Torres de Quart
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